Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Prop A


Every election has a Prop A. In Hawaii it's mass transit, nationally it's the economy, or the Iraq war, or Sarah Palin, anyway, on Guam there's this thing called Prop A. From what I understand, Proposition A: The Responsible Gaming Act, is a proposal to allow Guam Greyhound, a dog racing facility, not a pee pee smelling cross-island bus, to open a casino. When they build this casino they also have to build a convention center, hire 500 people (90% Guam residents), pay a bunch of taxes and dole out various sums of money to various social charities. My favorite part is that the casino will not, in theory, be open to Guam residents. Although this too is unacceptable (see above ad). Casino guests will have to show proof that they are leaving the island, I assume with all their gambling & alcohol addictions as well as pent up gambling rage and bankruptcies, within 30 days. (See: Article)


I try not to take sides on this particular issue when my teammates discuss the merits for or against Prop A at volleyball tournaments, however, it is hard not to see a little bit of humor in the various tactics of the dueling constituents. On the against side we have the Keep Guam Good coalition and what appear to be Catholic locals (again see advertisement) inherently opposed to gambling but trying to present it as a problem of corporate distrust and loopholey legislation because they can't just go and say it's against their religion. On the for side are the government and businesses who feel it is the only way to improve the tourism economy and are willing to unleash the horrors of worldly temptation, but only to visitors. Maybe it's not that funny. It's actually quite a bit serious, especially when folks start drawing lines in the sand on an island whose small girth makes it all too easy to draw a line across (it).

Sunday, October 26, 2008

Dollar Dollar Bill Y'all

And I do mean dollar bill.

This was our first week of work. Sloan started at the Marine Lab on Tuesday. It took a few days to acclimate to the sea air but she now has keys, a project to work on and a desk coming. Supposedly folks spend a good amount of time each day watching the waves break over the reef flat at the beach just down the hill.


They do a lot of field research at the Marine Lab. Actually, they do a lot of interesting work on coral disease and Sloan is working on sea sponges, specifically their potential to produce disease fighting bacteria (in layman's terms). I think they should study Chamois because they're more absorbent. I pray I will be able to understand her presentations this time around.

The reason I haven't posted in a while is because I've been very busy tutoring algebra. Two hours a week, total. I blew my first week's salary (on speculation) on "teacher wear," aka khakis. On Tuesday I had one student. On Thursday I had two. It is a very small school and a very quiet classroom with two shy eighth grade girls. Next class I need to bring in some background music just to break the tension. Algebra is intense.

Next week I will be substituting for an all-in-one science teacher who is going to Japan for an international science fair. I will be covering her Chemistry, Biology, Honors Biology, AP Biology and AP Environmental classes. I have a stack of textbooks that weighs more than an eighth grade girl and a little bit of honing up to do.

Friday, October 24, 2008

China Bike

If you thought you were cool, think again. This is a wedding gift from Sloan's former track coach and friend, Carl Cruz. Thank you Carl. It's a folding, rechargeable, electric bike from China and possibly the coolest thing ever. It has a light, a bell, a basket harness in back and goes 40km on one charge (I don't know how far that is in American). According to Carl, the entire Dutch team had these at the Athens Olympics to get around town.

Sloan is helping Carl train a high school track phenom so the two of us met the two of them at the GW Track at 5:30pm Wednesday. It's a beautiful spot on a small plateau with light breezes and a view of the University of Guam Field House which looks like a big cement opihi napping in the grass. The track, like bunches of other things on Guam, is not very well maintained. For some reason a 25 meter section of a straightaway is cemented over. Actually, the reason we were at the track at 5:30 was because another high school, JFK, was so poorly maintained (rusting rebar, mold and crumbling cement isn't that healthy for kids) that it was shut down forcing GW to hold double sessions to accommodate all the new students. The early shift goes to school from 7-11:55am, the late shift from 12:30-5:45pm. Our track star got out of class 15 minutes early.


Carl showed up late and brought his big, long, salt and pepper dog named - pepper - and this bike. "It's no good for the open road," he kept saying. "But it's perfect for urbane areas: China, Berkeley, Tumon. If you guys lived in Tumon it would be perfect."

It is already perfect. I love it. The first time he offered the bike
I wasn't there. For some reason Sloan claimed:
1. We don't have the space.
2. No one bikes on Guam.
3. We have to ship it when we leave. Etc.


Good thing I was there the second time he offered it. I did some laps around the track without pedaling. We clocked it at 5mph. It's now sitting in the garage with 2 extra tire tubes, 1 extra tire and a Mandarin instruction manual. Maybe Jasper can translate. Check out the website: www.junji-power.com.

"Whatever you do," Carl said, "don't give it away. I'll be real mad if you give it away." Are you kidding me? This thing's worth more than our truck and it has a spare tire.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Crabs in a Bowl


As we, chin deep in the economic downturn, gurgle the wake of the housing crisis, I want to reflect a minute on the lifelong plight of the hermit crab. In the very first blog post I mentioned the plethora (see: The Three Amigos) of hermit crabs on our beach in Merizo and in the photo you can see some of the variety of shells available to the crabs living on this beach. As I learned from Wikipedia, their survival and growth depends not only on the abundance of gastropod shells in the area but also on the predators who will eat gastropods and then leave the shells intact. That's a pretty formidable pecking order. I imagine it's like relying on the abundance of defaulting home owners, crooked mortgage lenders and a community that won't loot the house once it's empty just to gain access to a decent house, not to mention the impending competition with other hermit crabs. Leave it to decapods to teach us a timely life lesson. And speaking of valuable life lessons, which is in no way related to the crab rant:

Happy Birthday Sir Ace Siegrist.

Saturday, October 18, 2008

Milk in a Box

For those who have traveled outside of the mainland US this won't be anything new. For those who haven't, I won't bore you with the specifics of ultra-pasturized milk. You can check out this website for that: http://itotd.com/articles/220/milk-in-a-box/. The fact of the matter is, dairy products are expensive on Guam. Beer is cheap, milk & ice cream expensive - $7.99 for a half gallon of Dreyers. I know where all our petty cash is going.

I don't think there are any cows on Guam. I haven't seen any. There are carabao, which are like ninja cows. Cows are goofy looking, some have spots, they have names like Bessie or Ferdinand. Carabao have giant horns like the devil in that Tom Cruise movie Legend and are charcoal grey in color. These guys have the corner office (see picture). If they're giving milk they're not selling it at the local Cost-U-Less. Japanese tourists are throwing back $50 shots of it in the underground izakaya bars.

So we're sticking with boxed milk. It isn't nearly as bad as I remember back in the PI where I demanded it be microwaved to vaporize the manky aftertaste - like someone threw in a couple ground up Tums tablets. Apparently there have been developments in pasturization science and truth be told in coffee or over cereal I can't tell the difference. And I'll have you know, before I became intolerant, I sampled many full glassess of fresh squeezed goodness. Cheers to you milk in a box.

Friday, October 17, 2008

Pig in a Bag

Now this is fantastic. Some stomachs might turn at the sight of a plastic bag filled with frozen cubes of pork but for me this is a dream come true. I don't dream very big. Not only is this *family bag* of meat enough for a dozen meals, it comes in a robust plastic bag with a drawstring closure, all wrapped with a bun at the top like a fruit basket.


As you can read on the price label this is meat packaged specifically for pork adobo. Now this didn't come from a butcher or specialty store by any means. I wouldn't even call the place a grocery store. Let's tag it a convenience store - with bags of meat. I assume it's either shoulder or rump meat, but who knows? And who cares? If you didn't grow up Filipino or on the islands I'll have you know this is a simple and delicious dish - the pinoy mac and cheese. Here's the recipe (originally from the Palmore family vault). If you have any variations let me know:

Adobo

4 pounds of meat (pork or chicken)
2 bay leaves
3/4 cup soy sauce
3/4 cup white vinegar
3/4 cup water (better yet, a can of good beer)
1 tablespoon garlic powder, or 5 big cloves of fresh garlic, smashed and chopped
1 tablespoo
n sugar
1 large onion, sliced
Pepper to taste (start with about 1/2 teaspoon)


Simmer the meat in a 5 qt pot with all the ingredients except the onion for 1 1/2 - 2 hours for pork (chicken only 30 -45 minutes) or until the meat is super tender. I like to add a little ginger and Tabasco. Stir occasionally.

Add the sliced onion the last five minutes.


Serve over rice.


This is the first entry of my three part series on "something in a something." Justin Timberlake has agreed to sing the jingle. Check in for the next installment.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

House Party or One Degree of Drew

We took a right turn off route 10, just after a Wendy's, a left on a rocky dirt road that ran behind Untalan Middle School and another right up a second, more dirtier, dirt road. We climbed a small hill, neared the end of the road and parked in front of the house that didn't look abandoned. Dogs were barking from somewhere. Three or four skinny cats lounging on a rusted out Toyota truck perked up and stared at us wide eyed as we discussed whether we were at the right place at the right time. I reread the directions in my notebook. Sloan always teases my notebook. It has a black and white sticker of Kim Basinger on it and a lot of important notes in it: like playlists for long drives and drawings of stuff. "It seems right," I said, showing her my diagram of the houses at the end of the street Laurie had described over the phone. "Did she mention dogs?"

Two giddy white mutts traded off barks from behind a chain link fence on the side of the house. The cats stared. I shut the truck door deliberately loud and Laurie came to the window in a tank top, her hair still wet from the shower. We were on time, in other words, a good hour and a half too early.

She let us in and the dogs ran laps in the back yard. I got a canned beer and we pushed our way through the dogs to get out to the back patio. One had a bloody neck from the ticks they had pulled off that afternoon.

We met Simon, cheerful with short dreadlocks, who was barbecuing in the yard. Simon is Maia's boyfriend. Maia is Laurie's daughter. We sat down on plastic lawn chairs under a corrugated tin roof surrounded by hanging wooden ornaments and honeysuckle bushes. It started raining hard and things got complicated.

But first, some background. Laurie is an old friend of my dad, from Dumaguete. She knew me when I was little, down around her knees. She moved to Guam with Maia, who's about my sister's age, to work at the University of Guam Marine Lab in '96.

Maia came out of the house with an umbrella to join Simon in the yard. Mark arrived with a small ceramic bowl of hummus. I didn't think I had ever met Mark before. Why should I have, we're on Guam. He was fit, had a chiseled face and fat-less arms, and was of indeterminable age. My first guess was rock climber and/or vegan and/or one of those macrobiotic types. What is it they eat? Limpets? No, that's not right. Anyway, I was wrong on all accounts. Mark was a devout carnivore and not just a rock climber, he was an ultra-outdoorsman, and I had met him before - on Maui, of course. He was the preserve manager at Haleakala when I was doing an internship with The Nature Conservancy, again in '96.

"'96? That might have been the year I got all three suv's stuck in the mud," he said. "I got the first one stuck and then I marched right over, took the wheel and got the second one stuck, followed by the third. I was the preserve manager, I was the only one who could to it, you know, drive them through the mud. Was that your year?"

I honestly couldn't remember but it was a good story so now it is my year - the year the trucks got stuck. Peter showed up next, with a six pack of Asahi Blue. This is some kind of new Asahi, it could be a light beer, it could be organic or something, it's hard to say because the can's covered in Japanese. Peter is going to be Sloan's new boss so I better not say anything incriminating about him. Peter's German, or from Germany, and a hot shot at the University of Guam Marine Lab. He gets most of his funding from the federal government which, believe it or not, is far more reliable than funding from the University.

The rain was smacking on the patio roof and so we yelled at each other, ate hummus and cut away at a wedge of fontina cheese. Maia and Simon had moved the barbecue indoors to an electric grill and the house was filling with smoke. Delicious tear-inducing meat smoke. Maia and her mom discussed who could give the better stink eye. Maia could deliver a pretty rank stink eye. I informed them of a new trend in stink eye evolution: the fade away stink eye. This is where you linger in the vicinity of your opponent, but half obscured behind a wall or piece of furniture. When you manage to catch the eye of your adversary you engage the stink eye and "fade away" behind the obscuring agent. It is a nearly perfect and indefensible attack, enveloping your nemesis in a clammy funk as though they had just seen a ghost or driven past a sulfur mine (one of Mark's favorite smells).

The food was ready. We waded through the smoky living room and filled our plates with rice, sausages, barbecue chicken, corn and salad. In Simon and Mark's case, just chicken and sausage.

Over the buffet table Simon asked me, "Roy is your uncle? He was my advisor, in college. He was my favorite teacher."
"He is a smart guy. He would always meet us at the airport," I said. "He was the only relative (on my mom's side) who would visit us in Hawaii."
"He would give us sheets of folded up butcher block paper for exams and told us to show your work. He was my favorite teacher," he said again.
"I haven't talked to him in a long while," I said, and it made me a little sad to say because even though we saw heaps of relatives and family at our wedding there were still tons we didn't see.

Laurie put a CD on the stereo that we could barely hear. She came outside with a grin. "Do you know who this is?"
"I can't hear it," I said.
"It's your father."

Kind of a Darth Vader moment, if Darth Vader was more like James Taylor or CSN or Y, and hadn't just sliced my hand off with a laser sword. It was a CD from a tape that he and Tito Junix had made for Laurie on her 19th birthday. You could hear her laughing and singing along in the back of the tape. My dad and Tito Junix used to play in the bars and clubs around Dumaguete, maybe other places too. I've lost track of the stories. They had an act that admittedly I barely understood because I don't know more than a lick of Filipino but according to Laurie, and I believe her wholeheartedly, it was awesome. They translated traditional Filipino songs into other dialects to sound ridiculous, they mock broadcasted from Radio DUMB, they played guitar throughout and sang wacky and but remarkably endearing songs like precursors to Bret McKenzie and Jermaine Clement. The tape that Laurie was given for her birthday was the only known recording of their show until a couple of years ago when Junix and my dad were reunited with the tape and promptly turned it into a CD. Ta da.

One thing about getting older and steadily boxing up and storing away adventures and experiences, so much so that I can barely remember the things I did a year ago, I realize that my parents lived many lives too, a lot of them before I was born. And sometimes it takes hearing it from their friends before it really sinks in. So thank you Laurie, for dinner and making me even more proud of where I came from.

Friday, October 10, 2008

Bile Bay

When Sloan first introduced the bay we would be living on she pronounced it, as would I, the way it's spelled - "bile" - as in the bitter pea green soup that lives in your gallbladder. The bay was a landing site for the Japanese troops in World War II (1941) and forty six Chamorros were brutally slaughtered by grenade, bayonette and saber in the town of Merizo (see Guampedia entry). So I wasn't too happy with the name-sake implications of the bay we would be viewing our sunsets over.

Fortunately, a chance meeting with an old family friend of Sloan's at the University of Guam quelled my fears. This friend, who we will call Dr.D to protect his pleasant insulation here on Guam, is a master of verbal wordplay and my new hero. He manages to insert quips like "arsenic laced comments" and a devout knowledge of astrology into everyday conversation. I can't remember some of the more flavorful details of our discussion but I imagine it was a little like talking to Charles Dickens, if he was alive and a scientist. Anyway, this is how it went down:

"We're living in Merizo, on Bile Bay," said Sloan.
"You mean Billy Bay?" said Dr.D, his head tilted and eyebrows raised.
"Yes, Billy Bay," said Sloan.

Whew, sunsets saved. And as you should be able to tell from the pictures, they're gonna be pretty great.

Thursday, October 9, 2008

Container House

In the ever-changing dialog of responsible building methods, the Container Home - a house built using steel shipping containers (the kind you see on the back of big-rig trucks or stacked on shipping barges) - falls somewhere in the middle of sustainability spectrum. On one hand, steel is not a renewable resource and the containers are usually doused in a fair amount of chemical insecticides, on the other, they are easy to ship, ultra-strong and can be recycled/ reused products. See: SFGate Article.

Now, tucked away in the beach-front tropical jungle of Merizo Guam, yes it's possible, we have our very own Container Home. It's propped up on cinder blocks, got metal walls, and an air conditioner on each side - I guess like a candle burning at both ends. I've lived in small basement apartments the last 3 years and forced Sloan to join me for the last one so, all-considered, this is a pretty big step up.

We spent the afternoon mopping the linoleum floors, scrubbing the bathroom and wiping out the huge full-size fridge, a monolith in the small apartment. The realtor mentioned this as a selling point. Merizo is about as isolated as you can get on Guam (only 30 miles long and 5-10 miles wide), a good 40 minutes from the nearest stocked grocery store. He recommended filling the thing with frozen meats, you know, just in case the power goes out and the roads flood. Word.

Tuesday, October 7, 2008

The Other Frontier

Last month a short article, hidden in the homepage carnival of the New York Times online, spoke of Alaska, specifically how it is presented as the homeland of Sarah Palin, as the "last true frontier." Alaska's distance, "its mammoth size, its severe climate, its many unpopulated miles," contribute to the perception that the state is the American testing-ground for ideologies, the human spirit, and isolated governance.

http://www.nytimes.com/2008/09/14/weekinreview/14roberts.html?partner=permalink&exprod=permalink

Guam is way further West than Alaska. Though it is smaller, more densely populated, and has a relatively consistent climate (humid), I want to make the case for Guam as another incarnation of the American frontier (it is a territory), and for myself as a casual observer/collector of some of the stories that rise from the steaming post-rain asphalt.

Today, our first full day on the island, Sloan and I followed a speedy white BMW, our very own white rabbit (hopefully not melamine tainted), along route 4, through Talofofo and Inarajan, to our new house in Merizo, on the southern shore. To extend the metaphor, it did feel a bit like falling down a hole: rushing past gems, fossils, artifacts embedded in the earth in the way of concrete block homes, tidepools, village post offices and erroded rock formations. I can only hope that over the next year I will be able to slowly climb back out again and document each curiosity in greater detail. (Follow our path in purple).


In the BMW was our realtor, Mat, a very earnest and honest man with a full beard and ponytail. Armed with a cell phone holstered to his belt, he showed us around the property commenting on the price points of ocean-facing windows and grey-tinted paints versus true whites. I was distracted by the walking stones in the front yard - hermit crabs - and wondered whether I would ever be able to travel with their apparent ease and economy.